George McCullough started GUM in 2022 after more than a decade working with wine in Melbourne restaurants. He came across the old Chardonnay vines of the Cathedral Range while fly-fishing nearby. When he learned the owners were planning to pull out the vines, he offered to take care of the vineyard. It’s now the source of GUM’s Cathedral Range Chardonnay.

George also works with growers across Victoria, making a dry Sangiovese rosé from the King Valley and a textured Fiano from Heathcote. He takes a light touch in the cellar, and there’s a savoury thread through the range. These are wines made with food in mind, from a plate of snacks at the bar to a long lunch.