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We love Provençal rose as much as the next heat-affected courtyard sipper, but there exists a world of great rose beyond idyllic, lavender-laden southern France. Rose has the sometimes-unfortunate reputation for being insipid and one-dimensional. These three are anything but. Made by winemakers who take their craft seriously, their roses are not afterthoughts. Elegant, fresh and substantial, these roses are considered drinking; suited to aperitivo hour just as much as on a table replete with substantial dishes.

2021 Collette Rose Languedoc, France

From the same Bruno Lafon that makes some of Burgundy’s most revered wines from Domaine Comtes Lafon in Meursault comes an eminently guzzleable and perfect midweek chardonnay.

We can’t all afford the starting prices of his $250/bottle Meursault, but we can enjoy his approachable and expressive rosé from the Languedoc made from Pinot Noir rather than the usual Grenache-dominant blends of Provence. Consequently more delicate and prettier and impossible to stop drinking.

2022 Trutta Rose Heathcote, VIC

Like many of his winemaking peers, Jake Winther is leaning into more classical proportions. Years of experimentation have paved way for wines like this, without forfeiting lightness, freshness or playfulness.

Mostly cabernet with a soupcon of shiraz, the former was destemmed, latter fermented as whole bunches. They rest in a mix of steel and oak for winter and spring before bottling. Autumnal in nature, it's still best enjoyed from a cold start and allowed to bloom with air.

2019 Nuzzella ‘Scarina’ Rosato Sicily, Italy

Nuzzella was founded in 2014 when Nicola Oteri and his wife Norma purchased an old olive grove and vineyard planted to native varieties of nerello mascalese and carricante. Thus began the difficult and exciting work of recovering the 4ha of abandoned land.

Not rose, but rosato—wildly delicious, but as serious as Christopher Walken. Made from two picks, one on 1 Sep for crispness, the next on 1 Oct for ripeness, it breathes freely during barrel ferment imbuing a generous texture. It then slumbers in stainless for nine months before bottling. 750ml of pure joy.