Region: Mornington Peninsula, VIC
Variety: Pinot Noir
Beginning with the foresight and dedication of Kathleen Quealy and Kevin McCarthy and now propelled forward by their eldest son, Tom, and vineyard manager, Luca, Quealy has firmly established itself as a stalwart of Mornington, championing both the region and varieties they believe best suit the climate and soil. Conversion to organic farming despite the challenges of disease pressure on certain sites and a desire to minimise intervention whilst employing old-world winemaking techniques and fermentation methods illustrate the ethos at Quealy; one that is uncomfortable resting on laurels and desires to continue to learn and reimagine.
Seventeen Rows is Quealy's most savoury and complex wine. It's crammed with old-vine intensity and has serious structure; and dare we say it, it's more Burgundian than the other Pinots in the range. A unique product of this site and these vines, the 2019 may look a little lighter in the glass, but looks can be deceiving. There is an earthy, savoury intensity here that comes from both the site and the age of the vines, a feature also evident on the palate--which has the kind of engaging old-vine creaminess, nuance and texture we don't often see in Australian Pinots.