Place: Gargallo di Carpi — Emilia-Romagna, ITA

Variety: Lambrusco Salamino

Farming: Biodynamic

'We have an important hatred for the wines of autoclave and charmat.'

Terravive was founded as a 16ha oasis of polyculture located in the village of Gargallo di Carpi, just outside Modena. The farm has since been expanded to 35ha, growing vegetables, cereals, various fruits, herbs and grapes. 10ha is held for grapes, all of which are indigenous varieties, farmed according to strict biodynamic principles from inception. The soil here is sandy loam which is typical of the zone. Cover crops grow in alternating rows, used in spring as natural fertilizer. The vines are non-irrigated and all work in the vineyard from harvest to pruning is performed by hand.

Rather than being in separate plots, the vines intermingle with the plants of vegetables, cereals and other fruits, basking in the glory of their polycultural environment. In the cellar you will find dedication to the pre-Chaumat method of Lambrusco production. Contempt for both Chaumat and Autoclave in Lambrusco is not subtle here, seen evidently through Gianluca’s comment in a recent conversation, 'We have an important hatred for the wines of Autoclave and Chaumat'. If it wasn’t already clear, there is reference to the cuvee name 'No Autoclave!'.

Instead, unfermented grape must is added to the fermented wine before being bottled. The result of eschewing these now prominent methods are wines of scintillating purity, personality, presence and energetic acidity that has one reaching for the glass over and over again.

The winery is spartan in nature, lined with custom made cement tanks in which all wines go through primary fermentation. No yeast is added here, neither is acid ever adjusted nor chapitalisation ever employed. Dosage is a no-no too, resulting in spine- tinglingly bone-dry wines. These wines are the beginning of what will be a long rabbit hole for us in exploring the capability and potential of this amazing region.

Lambruscos Salamino and Sorbara with a splash of native white grape pignoletto. Deep purple hue a harbinger for smell and taste—dark, wild berries treble with savoury, herbaceous bass. More pepperoni, per favore.