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2020 J.J. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett Riesling


Region: Mosel, Germany

Variety: Riesling

An estate more traditional than a bottle of Kabinett with schnitzel. Founded in 1911 by Johan Joseph Prüm and now helmed by the fourth generation of Prüm, Katerina, the wines of this estate are honest and elegant expressions of the vineyards they work with.

Although a pleasure to drink in their vivacious youth, patience is truly rewarded—particularly with the Spätlese and Auslese Pradikats. 

For heralded Mosel producer Johannes Selbach, 2020 was "the longest harvest ever recorded" resulting in wines that are more elegant than 2018 and less powerful than 2019.

Producers from further afield like Cornelius Dönnhoff and Theresa Breuer reported similar experiences, with Cornelius making the bold claim that the "fruit was perfect" and Theresa highlighting that the conditions allowed for "excellent ripeness". 

"Even more inscrutable on the nose than the Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett from the same vintage! But real density on the palate and the firmness and acidity are such that this almost tastes like a dry wine. Absolutely classic J J Prüm with considerably less obvious sulphite influence than at one stage. But I assume that SO2 has played a part in this wine's reticence. Sensation of molten light honey on the very end despite the initial dry impression. Recommended to the patient. Drink 2024-2037." — Jancis Robinson